ALL WORK (AND SOME PLAY) IN BALI

This year Indonesia has had its hands full holding the presidency of the G20 - the nineteen countries (plus the EU) that account for over 80% of the world’s gross domestic product, 75% of world trade, and 60% of the world's population.  We’ve had our hands full at the embassy too, helping to support the constant stream of official visitors here in some capacity to take part in G20 meetings and events (including President Biden, who arrives today).  The vast majority of those events have been taking place in Bali.  I mean, I don’t blame Indonesia – Bali is far more scenic and cultural than Jakarta… but it certainly makes things a bit more difficult since we don’t have an embassy or consulate on anything in Bali.  It means I’ve spent quite a bit of time in Bali so far.  A lot of that time was spent in (arguably pretty impressive) conference rooms.  But Andrew has been able to join me on a couple of the trips, and we tacked on a bit of down time to relax and see some of the sights that Bali has to offer.

Arriving in the Bali Airport to support the U.S. delegation to the Health Minister's Meeting.  I spent several days shepherding around the Deputy Secretary of the Department of Health and Human Services and her advisors.

Badges?  We don't need no stinkin' badges!  Except, I guess we do.

The room where it happened.  I wanted to be in it...

...but ended up watching and taking notes from the room next door with a live feed on the jumbo-tron.

The Government of Indonesia went all out with evening entertainment that included cultural performances and 80s cover bands.  It was like the Olympics opening ceremony meets global diplomacy. 

After my business was out of the way, Andrew and I had a few days to play.  We hired a driver for the day to show us some of the tourist attractions Bali has on offer.  We stopped at a “cultural park” that had a bunch of enormous statues.  It has only recently been opened, and the main building was still under construction.  We made a quick tour of the place, took some obligatory photos (since the whole park seemed to have been built to appease Indonesians insatiable appetite for selfies), and headed on to the next destination.

The statues in the cultural park were enormous - Andrew for scale.

The statues were a good metaphor for Indonesia in general.  Very impressive at first glance... but don't look too closely at what's going on behind the scenes.

The hike past the gigantic statues culminates at the top of a hill and this building (with yet another enormous statue on top).

Inside, there was a collection of carvings, puppets, and these very lifelike masks.  But most of the building was still under construction.

Another display at the cultural park included room after room of dioramas complete with professional lighting for people to insert themselves and, of course, take selfies.  They even had a changing room at the entrance to the exhibit with various costumes for people to wear.  I mean, they go ALL OUT for selfies here.

Next up, a stop at Uluwatu, Bali’s most well-known and picturesque Balinese Hindu temple complex.  It was nearing mid-day and the heat was approaching broil, so we didn’t get to stay too long.  But I was able to visit Uluwatu again when I returned to Bali for another G20 event, so that made up for the quick first visit.

There are temples at Uluwatu too, but I mainly took photos of the amazing seacliffs.  Also, the place was overrun with monkeys.  We were forewarned to protect our hats and glasses against them.  So I was intent on taking photos quickly so as not to be accosted by primates.

Pretty sure just after we took this picture, a monkey jumped at us out of no where.  Time to go.

The second visit to Uluwatu as part of a G20 evening event included a kecak and fire dance performance.  In this traditional dance/story-telling performance, there are not musical instruments.  Instead, a group of about 50 men do rhythmic chanting throughout the performance.

Why it's called the "fire dance."

It had rained every day leading up to this evening, but like magic, we ended up with a spectacular sunset and a rain-free evening for this event.

We ended the day with lunch and then a visit to a couple of Bali’s beaches.  Can’t go to Bali and not go to the beach!

<Obligatory Bali beach photo>

Sun exposure + constant overheating = permanent red face

We also tacked on a few days in Ubud to our Bali adventure.  Ubud is probably what comes into your head when you think of Bali… lush vegetation, temples, rice fields.  All three were on full display.  The rainy season was in full force, so we had to dodge the rain drops – or just give in to them – most days.  But it didn’t stop us from scoping out the area and picking out a couple more out-of-the-way spots we hope to return to.  As you'll be able to tell from the fact that photos from Ubud dominate this post, Ubud has definitely been a highlight of my trips to Bali so far.

Moonrise over the jungle.

We found a pedestrian-only walking path away from the downtown traffic that led through the rice fields and along some small restaurants (or "warungs") and art shops.

The path also went past a temple closer toward town.

Such fascinating - and colorful - architecture!

We took in an evening cultural dance/story-telling performance at a temple one evening.  The men sitting off to the side are the musical accompaniment - the gamelan, which consists of a bunch of gongs and metal bowls that they hit with mallets.

One of the oldest Balinese Hindu temples in Ubud - Pura Gunung Kawi was built in the 11th century.  

We happened upon this part museum/part workshop of Balinese wood carvings.

The detail is truly incredible!

No trip to Ubud is complete without a visit to the Tegalalang terraced rice fields.

Bustling downtown Ubud.

"Where did I park the scooter?"  Just kidding - definitely not brave enough to scooter here.

Another one of Ubud's scenic temples - Taman Saraswati Temple.  Not pictured: the Starbucks that's right outside.  (Not kidding.)

The moss-covered statues are so expressive.

Balinese Hindu culture is ever on display in Ubud with residents often wearing traditional dress and making offerings of flowers and seeds at their temples.

Taking a break to take it all in.

So I’ve spent a combined total of about a month in Bali so far.  Most of that time has been spent wearing business suits and running around to meetings… not exactly the usual Bali activities.  Hoping we’ll get back for more leisurely pursuits too – maybe after we’ve visited some other places in the meantime and I no longer primarily associate Bali with long, frantic work days.