APRIL IN FLORES... PART 2 (AND AN IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT)

When we last visited our intrepid Migrants, they were on the island of Flores catching up with friends from Portland and visiting Kelimutu National Park.  We pick up where we left off there…  (And stay tuned to the end for an important announcement!)

On the front- and back-end of our Kelimutu visit, we were able to see some other parts of Flores and some smaller nearby islands.  Our launching point was Labuan Bajo on Flores, and the 2½ hour flight there from Jakarta provided beautiful vistas of some of Indonesia’s many, many islands (over 17,000 total).   

Only 6,000 of Indonesia's islands are inhabited.  Lots of them are just little specs in the ocean. 

Highly recommend a window seat on the flight to Labuan Bajo!

Absolutely stunning views on our airport approach.

We had a full day in Labuan Bajo before meeting up with our friends to start our previously reported trip to Kelimutu.  We opted to get on a boat for a day trip to visit some of the neighboring islands, including Padar Island, a stop at Komodo Island to visit its Pink Beach and National Park (and resident “dragons”), and snorkeling along the way, including a spot with about a dozen manta rays.  Setting out from the Labuan Bajo harbor, we passed hundreds of “live aboard” wooden ships that offer multi-day trips around these islands.  Many of our colleagues have done these trips… but we’d also heard many stories of these ships breaking down, sinking, catching fire… so we opted to stay on land and just do a day trip to see the sights. 

Some refreshing beverages - and shade - at our hotel in Labuan Bajo, the Sylvia Resort.

A beautiful sunset from our terra firma hotel.

At the harbor getting ready for our day trip.  I am constantly impressed by Indonesians' ability to sit like this.  My achilles tendon would snap!

Some of the seaworthy (or not?) liveaboards in the harbor.

All aboard!

The first stop was Padar Island where we met up with dozens of other boats and hundreds of likeminded day-trip tourists to hike to the top.  The summit did offer spectacular views of all the islands dotting the horizon.  But the throngs of people and selfie-seekers definitely detracted from the experience.  The heat didn’t help either.  This was stop number 1 – I mean, we were probably starting the 45-minute-ish hike to the top by 8am or so… and we’d both sweat through our clothes within the first 5 minutes.  We snapped a few pics, started the descent, and headed back to the boat for the next stop.

First stop: Padar Island.

Pausing for a pic on the hike to the top.  What you don't see are the hundreds of people on the trail and hanging out behind me.

I had to WAIT IN A LINE to take this photo.

On to Komodo Island… and more throngs of tourists.  We were divided up into smaller groups of about 20 people or so, and each group was led into the park by a guide.  The guides all carried basically walking sticks that were deemed to be used to defend against any komodo dragons who may get a bit to close.  We did see a few dragons, though most of them were laying completely still.  I felt sorry for them since hundreds of tourists were being ushered past them and posing for photos with them… and I’m sure all they wanted to do was have a quiet nap.  No such thing in a country with 270 million people living in a country with a total land mass that’s roughly 2½ times the size of Texas.

We also waited in line to have our photo taken with this sleepy guy.  

The only dragon we saw on the move.  Check out that forked tongue!

These deer were also on the island and are prey for the dragons.  Despite what they look like, komodo dragons can be fast when they're hungry... and all they have to do is bite their prey once.  Their saliva is super poisonous and is what ultimately takes down their prey.  It doesn't sound like a good way to go.

We were there!

Back to the boat for a trip to the other side of Komodo Island to see Pink Beach… and jump in the water!  AHHHHH!!!  There were a few stalls set up selling drinks and snacks (no place in Indonesia is without stalls selling drinks and snacks).  Most importantly, these concessions also had some tables and chairs in the SHADE, so we were able to cool off a bit. 

Our ride for the day.

The little tiny pieces of red coral do give the beach a pink hue.

Red coral on display on the beach... among the concession stands.

Last stop, Manta Point.  So named for the manta rays that hang out there.  No underwater camera so no photos of that stop, but it was a highlight.  First off, we were back in the water and thermoregulating.  But also, the mantas were awesome!  Huge, gentle beasts gliding through the water – and we were swimming with them!  (And, dozens of other tourists, of course.)  But all-in-all a great way to start our trip on Flores.

<See previous blog post on Kelimutu National Park here.>

And then, having bid our Portland friends farewell, we headed back to Labuan Bajo, and back to its harbor.  This time to take a boat our to our next accommodation for a few nights, Sudamala Seraya.  This resort was on a little island about an hour’s boat ride from the harbor.  Unbeknownst to us at the time, we’d actually flown over this little island on our flight to Labuan Bajo – we didn’t realize it until we were looking at our photos afterwards.  The island only has two resorts on it – both consisting of no more than a couple dozen bungalows, so it was a refreshingly quiet, serene, beautiful place for a few days of rest and relaxation.  And bonus – the island had its own house reef with I dare say the best snorkeling we’ve ever seen – and we’ve been to some great snorkel spots.  You could jump right in from the resort’s pier, or do a short swim out from the beach.  Point is – we didn’t have to do anything more than put on our swimsuits and head out the door to the water, or the beach, or the restaurant.  Nothing was more than 100’ from our front door.  No cars!  Or scooters!  Or traffic!  Or smog!  Or, really, other people!  This was by far one of our favorite spots in Indonesia so far.  (Kelimutu is in the running too.) 

That little bungalow behind us was our refuge for 3 glorious days.

This was our view.  Can you feel the serenity?

So many glorious sunsets - and sunrises, like this one.

Absolutely crystal clear water.

You could SEE the reef and the fish from the pier.

Look at these happy fish!

An impressive array of shells too!  (Don't worry - I put them all back.)

The view from the restaurant (and pool), which was about 100' from our bungalow.

Another sunrise.  They were spectacular, and we were up for most of them.  It was the best time for a snorkel because everything was so still and calm.

Looking out toward the end of the pier at dusk.

The ground crew in Labuan Bajo waved goodbye to our plane!  I mean, whaaaat?  How cute is that?

Those bungalows on the far right comprised our magical island resort. 

The common denominator for our favorite spots in Indonesia has been a lack of crowds and a dose of blue sky and clean air.  And as my “bidding season” began (i.e., time for me to start interviewing for my next job), those aspects definitely became a priority for our next post.  Yes, that’s right, we’re already starting to think about where we'll head after my tour in Jakarta ends next summer.  And, in fact, we already know!  Here’s the important announcement I teased at the top of this post:  We’ll be headed to La Paz, Bolivia next summer!  Lack of crowds?  Check.  (Total population: 11 million.)  Blue sky and clean air?  Check.  (La Paz annual average AQI: 23, Jakarta: 144.)  Of course, at 11,000 feet, that clean air will be very thin… but we’ll take it!

Onward!  (In summer 2025.)