BACK IN ACTION

Andrew and I overcame the inertia reported in my last blog post with a full slate of activities this month.  It helped that September in Belize is chock-full of public holidays.  Belize’s St. George’s Caye Day and Independence Day combined with our Labor Day provided us with three 3-day weekends to get back out there and explore uncharted territory.

We started with a long weekend in Mountain Pine Ridge, which is only about 30 miles southwest of Belmopan as the crow flies, but because of the terrible roads to get there, took us about two hours to get to.  It’s a “forest reserve” that has a few resorts and tons of trails and waterfalls.  It’s at a higher elevation, so even though it was still blazing hot during the day - especially when we were out hiking around trying to see everything there was to see - it was noticeably cooler in the evenings.  Our little cabana even had a FIREPLACE with kindling and wood should we have wanted to build a fire.  (Um… no.  It wasn’t that cool in the evening.)  The setting was glorious – scraggly closed-cone pines scattered around an understory of ferns, canyons, waterfalls and natural pools, and birds (of course).  The scenery seemed completely out of place from the palm trees and jungle that we’re used to seeing.  The resort where we stayed was lovely too.  Were it not for the 20 miles of rutted dirt track to get there, we’d likely try for a return visit.  But seeing as we’d like to keep the ol’ Pathfinder running for a few more months, it’s not likely we’ll brave it again.

A lovely vista from the higher elevation in Mountain Pine Ridge

One of the many waterfalls throughout the reserve

Good advice

Obligatory bird photo - a squirrel cuckoo

We thought about getting in, but that water was COLD

So pretty!

The sunsets in Mountain Pine Ridge were in full splendor

On our next 3-day weekend, we ventured north of the border to a little town called Bacalar, Mexico.  The town is set on the bank of a huge lake with absolutely crystal clear, warm water.  For most of this year, the beaches in Belize have been plagued by sargassum, a kind of seaweed that floats in huge rafts and has been washing up on the beaches all along the Caribbean coast.  It has been wreaking all kinds of havoc with sea life… and has been reeking, full stop.  (More on this below.)  So our trip to Bacalar was everything a visit to a tropical beach on the Caribbean sea should be… it just wasn’t technically on the sea.  We spent one morning at Cenote Azul – think Crater Lake, but with way warmer water.  After paying a small entrance fee, we set up shop at the restaurant there, went for a couple dips in the water, and enjoyed some libations.  

Cenote Azul (Blue Hole) with the lake in the background.  I pilfered this photo from the internet.  We enjoyed the hospitality at the restaurant on the left.

Andrew enjoying a swim

Post-swim cheladas - beer with lemon juice on ice with a salted rim.  Our refreshment of choice while we were in Bacalar.

In the afternoon, we went out on a catamaran to check out the lake.  Our skipper made a few stops for us to get into the water, and we were treated to a lovely sunset on the way back.  It was a fantastic getaway, and the cheap accommodations, delicious food, and gorgeous water means we likely will try to get back up there.

I don't have any photos from our afternoon sail... but I do have this one of me working hard in the hammock on the patio at our hotel in Bacalar.

We spent the last long September weekend in San Pedro on Ambergris Caye.  The local airline, Tropic Air, was offering cheap tickets all over Belize in honor of Independence Day, so we took advantage of the deals to fly from Belmopan to San Pedro – cutting what would be a half-day affair by car and water taxi into a quick 45-minute jaunt.  

Our 12-seater plane was filled to capacity, and Andrew got to ride in the co-pilot seat.

This is definitely the way to travel to San Pedro!

Having stayed right in town the last time we visited, we opted to stay at a quieter location north of town… and it was definitely quiet.  This is the off-season for the beach resorts, and a lot of the tourist businesses shut down for the month, so lots of places were closed.  And then, there was the aforementioned sargassum.  The smell – compost meets rotting fish – almost knocked the wind out of us.  For 100 feet or so out from the shore, the water was just brown and gunky, and huge piles of sargassum (and trash) were piled up in various collection points along the shore.  NOT the scenic beach experience that tourists are probably expecting when they come here.  

Gross.

We had a couple nice meals and spent an afternoon at a beach bar on the backside of the caye that was protected from the seaweed… but even so, I don’t think either of us are in a hurry to get back to a beach here anytime soon.

The sunsets in San Pedro definitely don't stink 

Another guest at the hotel

Maybe the last time we'll see downtown San Pedro?

In order to not end this post on that sour (smelling) note, even despite the assault on our noses, all of our excursions offered a welcome change of scenery.  And Mountain Pine Ridge – and especially Bacalar – were fantastic discoveries.  Oh, and we hosted a new furry houseguest in the midst of all of it too.  

Meet Princess!

So, all told, September was a great adventure, and it was good to be back in action.