FINDING INDONESIA... AND WHAT WE DID FOR ANDREW'S BIRTHDAY

I’m not really one for new year’s resolutions.  But this year I came up with one that seems easier to do than losing 10 pounds, or learning to play guitar, or organizing the junk closet.  (All have been tried and failed.)  This year, our last full year in Indonesia, I want to see more of this country (and maybe a few of its neighbors).  And we got a head start in November when we took a birthday trip to celebrate Andrew’s birthday on Borneo.

The island of Borneo is shared by three countries – Indonesia, Malaysia, and Brunei.  Indonesia’s province of Kalimantan makes up the majority of Borneo, and it’s still relatively wild and jungly and less developed than the island of Java, where Jakarta is.  (For now, at least.  At present, the Indonesian government is busy clearing the jungle in Kalimantan to make way for a new capital to be located there to replace the ever-sinking and increasingly crowded and flooded Jakarta.)  Based on some recommendations from friends and colleagues who had previously visited Kalimantan, we set out by boat to see orangutans in Tanjang Puting National Park.

Entering Tanjang Puting National Park by boat.

Our open-air home for 3-days was what looked like a floating RV.  The main floor was all ours, with a couple lounge chairs and bean bags in the front for lounging, a table where we had some delicious meals, and a mattress in the back that would be donned with a mosquito net at night.  The crew included a captain and assistant, cook, and tour guide who took great care of us.  In the morning, we’d pull up to a small dock and our guide would lead us on a short hike to a viewing area to see the orangutans, most of which have been rescued or relocated to the park from other areas of Indonesia.  Once a day, the rangers put out a feast of bananas, sugar cane, and other tropical treats, and the orangutans appear to check out the spread.  We’d hang out at the observation area for an hour or so, then head back to the boat and enjoy lunch and the view while we motored to our next viewing location.

Each stop along the way had its own little population of orangutans that each had their own personalities.

Their faces were so expressive!  And the older males have these large facial disks that add to their character.

Even though they seem compact when they squat down to enjoy a banana, they are big when they stand up and are swinging around in the trees.

Soups on!

This teenager is showing off some impressive gymnastics moves.

What are YOU looking at?

The whole family gets in on the smorgasbord.

Even orangutans play with their food.

I think he still had room for a couple more.

Camp Leakey (as in Louis Leakey, the paleoanthropologist) is a small research station in Tanjung Puting National Park and the last stop on our boat trip into the jungle.

We saw tons of orangutans and each spot, along with all sorts of other jungle creatures along the way – proboscis monkeys (whose giant schnozzes looks like something out of Dr. Seuss), hornbills, monitor lizards… even a crocodile.  It was HOT – the best tip someone gave me was to bring a fan, which I put to good use.  But we enjoyed clear air, some beautiful sunsets, and some quiet evenings away from Jakarta’s constant bustle, motor scooters, and smog.

A proboscis monkey - proof that Mother Nature has a sense of humor.

Our guide took us on a night hike after dinner the first night.  This little spiderhunter was taking a nap... but has an apt name give all the creepy crawlies we also saw on our night hike.

The river we snaked our way along was barely wider than our boat.

A pretty spartan way of life for the fisherfolk who live along the river.

We had two spectacular sunsets.

No filter here folks - these colors are all real.

Our Winnebago-meets-boat and home for two nights.

Our roomy, open-air transport through the jungle.

Andrew's actual birthday was the second night of our trip, and the crew put on a spectacular feast to celebrate. This is nasi tumpeng - a cone of yellow rice surrounded by a selection of savory sides dishes - and traditionally served to celebrate a special occasion. 

The birthday boy, kicking his feet up (and trying to stay cool while avoid being bitten by mosquitos... two things that are not usually able to be simultaneously achieved).

The intrepid vibrant migrants, winding though the Borneo jungle.

From Kalimantan, we headed to Bali for a few days and met up with Andrew’s friend Shaun who came up from Oz to celebrate Andrew’s birthday.  We lined up a great mix of activities – a day out on the water for snorkeling, a day on land heading north on the island to see some temples, and a day (or two) of just lounging beach-side.  I think, with this trip, we’ve officially “seen” Bali, and are ready to broaden our horizons and find some other, less-traveled parts of Indonesia this year.  We already have several excursions lined up – so stay tuned!

Road trip to the Ulun Danu Beratan Hindu Temple on Bali.

The temple was an impressive sight to see.  Navigating the traffic on Bali to get there... not so much.

A well-earned refreshment with Andrew's friend Shaun.

In addition to Andrew's birthday, we also celebrated Thanksgiving on Bali.  This was the setting for our Thanksgiving dinner... which featured tacos in lieu of turkey and trimmings.