SPRING COLORS IN THE EASTERN HIGHLANDS

September in Zimbabwe has ushered in the start of spring.  The jacarandas and other flowering trees have started to put on their show.  Everything is leafing out.  And in Zimbabwe’s eastern highlands, the fresh spring colors look a lot like fall back home.

We headed to Nyanga near the border of Mozambique for a long weekend getaway a few weeks ago.  We’ve visited the area a couple of times now, but spring is by far the best time to go.  In spring, the newly leafed-out msasa trees put on quite a show of reds and oranges that can’t help but remind you that it is fall back home.  Nyanga is about a 5-hour drive from Harare – a pretty reasonable distance by Zim standards – so a small group of friends and colleagues headed out to hike and enjoy the color show.

Msasa trees in their full splendor.

First stop, a spot called World’s View that afforded 180-degree-plus views of the flatlands we had driven through to get there.  As with almost all days in Zim, we enjoyed a lovely sunny day (if not a bit hazy from the smoke from burning fields that seems to always be hanging around) to take in the vista.

Looking west over Zimbabwe from World's View.

Proof of life!

We also went to Nyanga National Park and hiked out to a viewpoint to see Mutarazi Falls, the highest falls in Zim and second highest in Africa.  Andrew and I had actually done this hike back in July last year, but it was overcast and a bit drizzly.  This time was a different story and the falls were in their full glory.

Not actually Mutarazi Falls, but one of several falls coming off the escarpment.

THAT is (a pretty average photo of) Mutarazi Falls.

The keystone event of the weekend was a hike up Mount Nyangani, the highest peak in Zim at just over 8,500 feet.  We hired a national park guide to show us the way, as that is now required after several hikers lost the trail and went missing.  The local lore is that the mountain’s spirits are responsible for their disappearances.  At any rate, we were quite happy to have our guide Tendai show us the way and offer words of encouragement along the decidedly steep trail.  Good news!  We made it to the top – and back down! – in one piece.  The views at the top were pretty incredible with a big bank of clouds pushed up along the Mozambique side of the mountain ridge, and views over the Zimbabwe plains in the other direction.  We also got to see lots of msasa trees in their full red and orange glory.  And after a full day of hiking, we definitely earned our gin and tonics that evening.

We drove to the trailhead on that road you see in the distance... and this wasn't even the top yet.

Made it to the summit of Mt. Nyangani!

Looking east into Mozambique... and a cloud bank pushed up against the mountain ridge.

Back on the trail.

At over 8,000 feet, definitely had to stop to catch our breath... and take in the views.

Thar she is!  The highest point on that ridgeline is Mt. Nyangani.

A stop at Nyangombe Falls on the way out of the park to rest our tired feet.

We got back to Harare mid-week, but I rounded out the week with a couple extra days off to enjoy some golf and much-needed downtime.  Zim has some really lovely – and cheap! – golf courses, so we’ve been taking full advantage of those.

The 18th fairway and clubhouse at the Royal Harare Golf Club.  This photo may or may not have been taken from where my ball actually landed.  

As much as the days… and weeks… and months this year have seemed to just bleed into each other, the changing colors and warmer days are definitely a signal that time is passing.  Glad we got to see the spring foliage display to have that reminder.